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Building JC (trying to)

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kiwibob View Drop Down
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    Posted: June 02 2018 at 7:58pm
Hi all - new member here - I have never shot much but .22 since a boy. So very green. Always liked the JC, since a boy some 35 years ago. For some reason, I decided I need to reload, and shoot with one. So I have recently ended up with reloading gear and all these JC bit's. ((they were not bits until I got hold of them)) Cant seem to find one that's original, so I'm having to make one from the bit's. I do need a bit of help with what to do about the fore stock as it has been altered to take a hung trigger.    


Only one of the butt stock's is un modified, so I'll be using that one. There is only two JC fore stock's,-- and one of them is cut down - That only leaves one JC fore stock, to work with.--- Three problems exist with it. #1 missing wood, to accommodate no4 hung trigger from a previous build. #2 badly chamfered/radius, where top wood meet's fore stock. #3 chiselled/hacked wood around fore band area.


More pictures to try to show issues with fore stock needing resolving.


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I had initially been worried about approching "stocking up my action".

But found this -https://www.guncity.com/32smle-iii-blued-cus-332796



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"No worries about the stock!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2018 at 7:55pm
welcome , 

well , i will say you have your work cut out - not sure you will end up with a real no5 but then im not getting a clear vission that you care beyond the appearance , lots of interesting bits and pieces , big project but looks to be one of love , enjoy 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hoadie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2018 at 8:25pm
I just gotta ask...How in the world did you end-up with so many pieces/parts?

Most folks search & search, & don't come up with anywhere near that amount at once!
Loose wimmen tightened here
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kiwibob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 04 2018 at 11:29pm
he!!o.. yes JC in questionable condition are about $250 USD here in NZ. Not all parts will be original though, but most of them have some match numbers. Original, un-modified furniture seems to be very, very rare. For about $600 USD you can get the real deal JC - un-modified in any way. But you may have to wait a very long time. We have our own Ebay here in NZ called "Trade Me". Its allowed to have firearms sold. If they fall within normal criteria.

It might be worth you looking in, on the 'Trade Me' website to see what other items there are - at moment, I covet a #4 'T' that's for sale on there. Maybe one day I'll spring for one. It's more likely, that I'd just go for a concourse #4, regardless - if one ever turned up. and maybe later make a Faux 'T'. There is also another JC on there that looks to be complete. However a stock mod. and lack of details in the ad. - I think I have enough JC bits, for a few weeks at least.


I started casting and loading 9mm for my local pistol club. and found out that I enjoy reloading and getting stuck into the Lyman books and such like.


So I thought about casting and loading a rifle cartridge.
Which led to me getting hold of a JC
An obvious choice for me personally.

So when I received it, I found it was far from original, and then I did a bit of research on the net, The amount of information and parts availability I found very promising, and that point decided, It was feasible to bring it back to factory spec.

I saw a couple more appear for sale, and figured at $250 a pop, were worth it for the spare parts, so bought them.

I have two matching #5 action, bolt and shiny bore barrel.
one not so good #5 barrel, and a #4 receiver -
and all the other bits needed to complete two #5

I will have to tig weld and machine bayonet lug back on though.
I don't have dimension drawing for milling profile yet.
(I could fudge it with good photos and scaling details)
So will leave the machining lug profile until I get hold of a bayonet.


Selecting the best action and fore stock to mate with it, is where I am now.

I have taken a lot of info from this site - thanks very much - I can now confidently undertake the repair/bedding job to the fore stock.
To the dismay of some - I will be using resin and glass in some key places,
but not so it is noticeable assembled.


I have some very thin walnut laminate sheet on the way.

I have an idea on how to repair the crappy big radius on top of fore stock without router and setting in a block.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2018 at 2:35am
Welcome to the forum.
That's quite an interesting project; or should I say 3 project's! 
Before worrying about which wood to use, I'd suggest you check out the receiver, bolt and barrel combination's. To check you have matching number's; or failing that, proper fit and headspace. You will have to make some tool's to help fit the barrel's if you don't already have them. I would say go the route of least resistance to start with and build up a shooter using the sporter wood. If you enjoy shooting the rifle, then look at finding a fresh fore end. Unless you have the carpentry skills to rectify the fault's you've spotted.
You have one magazine for SMLE and one for No4 or 5 JC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kiwibob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2018 at 4:01am
he!!o. Thanks, I had thought one of the magazines had some odd, redundant bits.
I do have #5 matching bolt, receiver and barrel - a good shiny one, I had a bore scope though it too get a closer look and it looks in very good shape ,sharp rifling all the way, also, it is on a "number 0 bolt head", which is promising.
However, only one bolt lug contact discernible, with marker pen trick. I will have to find out more on this before shooting.

Or how to effectively remedy it, if at all possible.

Despite your reasonable advise. The sporter fore stock is #4 cut down - so it will be a doner to the #5 fore stock that needs a splicing up front.


There is in fact a $100 #4 sporter at my local so that my be in my hands soon.


I had noticed, at some point in time, the #4 receiver had been in a vice with a bar shoved thru it, and pipe wrench to fit a #5 barrel. The damage was evident.

I made a jig that bolts receiver flat and aluminium jaws knox bar, a bit of heat and they all came apart easy. I plan on parkerising myself so will be prepping barrel finish in lathe. possibly a bit of light sandblast to help hold oil on a bit longer. also - I don't really want to heat and tig the flash hider while on the barrel. Is why I pulled them all apart.


The fore stock I have in my hand in picture is the best one, as it is complete, does need a bit of internal work.


I cant find the furniture for this rifle for love nor money, at least that I can write a cheque for.


I think the furniture I have is what I'm stuck with - who knows , I may buy another in a few weeks, It just despond's how thing's play out.


I have been reading up since posting this message, and are confident with the repairs I intend on the fore stock. Chambering, since I reload - will be a delicate joy, dreams of Redding, collet dies, shoulder length and micrometres, linotype and the like. Getting to know powder characteristics, all fun stuff.

Can I go to 1250 FPS with a 200 grain bullet and red dot for back yard plinking?

Do I need more twist than standard enfield to stabilise at this speed?

All the cool stuff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SW28fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 10 2018 at 4:25pm
I have a real one, but rarely shoot it.  I is very accurate for the first 3 or 4 shots then once it gets hot it goes from 2 moa to 12 moa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stingroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 13 2018 at 4:43pm
Hi there! I notice you have two flash hiders. Would you be willing to sell one of them? If so, I am very interested!

Good luck with your build! Sadly I don't know enough to be worthy of contributing to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kiwibob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 14 2018 at 5:12am
In reply to flash hider - I need to make 2 JC's from these bits. So will be needing them both - the other bits I will be using for another project. Because they have already been mutilated to some degree, and therefor good for "doner" bit's.
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Flash hider fitting/removal can be very troublesome, so suggest that if you do go to all the trouble, you may as well fit a complete one, i.e. (with bayonet lug)
Very hard to obtain suitable replacement - but not impossible. Sorry I cant help out at this stage.


---To the other fello with inaccurate JC.
Tons of info about this topic on the web - quite possibly - too much info.
There do exist shooters, who can extract accuracy from this platform.
But not without a lot of skill, knowledge and effort.
I have recently watched ton's of hours of a very experienced, and to my mind knoledgeable person on Utube called GUNBLUE.

Among some of the things he mentions about attaning accuracy, apart from the obvious things, like bedding, is on the subject of working up loads.

He goes on to explain, very well, about barrel flex, at the moment the bullet exits the crown.

Any accuracy problems that you have, for whatever reason, are magnified, by not having the best load or FPS or 'frequency' (same thing) for your rifle.


He goes on to explain about waves with "node's" and "overtone's", much like you might see on an occiloscope.


you have to watch the vidio - but basically is explained, that the bullet has to leave the crown - on the 'node' part of the wave for best accuracy.

This is done by working up your charge.

Unfortunately, worn or imperfect component/fittings contibutes to inaccuracy.

So you can really only "work up a load" properly, once the other issues are resolved.


I have a good barrel and action/sights - so the rest is up to me.

I'm still a while away from shooting but have intention of making this 2" to 4" MOA - otherwise I'll chuck the lot in the bin.

I will be using Lyman gascheck #314299 200gr (#2 Alloy) 10.5-14gr Unique

This gives 1530 FPS with 25" barrel, and who knows what with a 18.8" barrel.

This is what is immidiately available to me so this is what I will be starting to work with.

I currently do not have published data on pushing a gascheck #314299 200gr pill to 2000 FPS.


I do note however that Lyman has publishd load data for 30-06 Sprinfield. Pushing a 190gr cast pill to 2419 FPS (IMR4895) and a 210gr cast pill 2422 FPS.


So, further down the track, I may well start to seek some similar load data for 303







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