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Jungle Carbine Bayonet Lug Repair
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Shamu View Drop Down
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Points: 20510 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 06 2022 at 5:07pm
I don't recall ever suggesting they did?
It was just a suggestion for those who want to get the original appearance.
"Next thing will be chambering enfields for modern ammo"
Oh, like the 2A1, or the 7.62mm NATO  "modern" L42 A1?
Seriously?
While I appreciate the collectors side of the field its not the ONLY side of the field.
As long as its not passed off as a "Rare Curio worth millions" I have no problems with it.
While this forum has many serious collectors It also has a bunch of "Shade Tree Smiffs" Serious long range target shooters, & may other branches of the L-E family.
I'd like to think we're sufficiently evolved to coexist, no?
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Points: 24 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mc Tool Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 06 2022 at 6:35pm
Oh dear , the whole post was "tongue in cheek " Shamu ,  ( hence the 😆's )  
I wish I was young again , Id be way smarter next time
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Points: 29 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kiwibob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 06 2022 at 10:49pm
Silver solder is fantastic stuff, but with my restoration efforts, I try, to the best of my knowledge and abilities, to get them back to, or better, than when they were issued to troops.  Which I have accomplished so far, in one example, at least (on-line).  I do have higher hopes, if more time and funds become available.  With TIG welding my lug's, I used a USA developed, problem solving alloy filler rod, specifically developed to join dissimilar steel alloys (ie circa2022 al4140 vs 1945 ordinance steel) to do the job.  I am confident I could pick a human up, on the end of my bayonet. With that lug.  With silver solder yield strength being a 1/10 that of mild steel, like I said, it is fantastic problem-solving stuff, but it would not suit my needs.  
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Points: 8842 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Goosic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2022 at 5:33am
Originally posted by pisco pisco wrote:

Nice work fixing the lug 
I was thinking of trying to get hold of a flash hider and get someone to copy them
Numrich Gun Parts sells replica/reproduction No5Mk1 flash hiders...
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Originally posted by Shamu Shamu wrote:

I wonder could you fabricate JUST the bayonet lug & silver solder it to an existing flash suppressor housing?
You can safely silver solder front sight ramps without damage to the barrel but I'm not really sure of the strength with a bayonet attached?


Personally, I think this is a great idea, silver solder/furnace weld would be more than strong enough, and if done well wouldn`t be very noticeable, especially if bayonet is mounted for display purposes.Wink
Not original but close enough, and easier than trying to bash off the old muzzle devise to replace. been down that road and they can be very stubborn.
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Ah, apologies!Hug I didn't even hear the "whooooshhhhh" as it went past me!Confused
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Points: 3049 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shiloh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2022 at 12:29pm
Originally posted by kiwibob kiwibob wrote:

Silver solder is fantastic stuff,...............   With silver solder yield strength being a 1/10 that of mild steel, like I said, it is fantastic problem-solving stuff, but it would not suit my needs.  


1/10th, the last I checked if done well, ie furnace weld with close fitting parts will yield 70000psi marginally better then bronze brazing.

Beer
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whatever - beats the he!! out of a missing lug 
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Points: 29 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kiwibob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 07 2022 at 10:58pm
OK... that's good to know.  I had not considered using solder because I had large voids to fill, not nicely mated expansive surface contact, plus my boss does not keep a stock of silver solder, simply because it's too good, and it 'disappears'.

You can imagine, in a large engineering workshop, lowering the cost of consumables is a constant thing.

I'm trying to attach a picture of the actual filler rod that I used to join these two dissimilar bits of steel alloy. 

This worked for me.
I will use it again.
I thank this website - I would not have been able to do anything without all the information I got from it.
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What a great solution.

I'm in the process of restoring a No.5 sporter and need to remove the flash hider to get the upper handguard retaining ring on (also to bead blast and parkerize).

Do you think heat and this 2 jaw puller with a screw/brass washer work?  It pulled the nade launcher sleeve from my Type 81 but I don't think it was sweated on.
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Been there and done that. To be honest the puller will damage the crown of the muzzle and not make any progress.
I got mine off in the end by repeated heating up and cooling down with a gas blow torch while using a large hammer and a brass block behind the edge of the sight.  You have to take your time and be persistent.
It will eventually pop off.
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Wouldn't it be easier to remove the barrel from the action ?🤔
I wish I was young again , Id be way smarter next time
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Originally posted by Mc Tool Mc Tool wrote:

Wouldn't it be easier to remove the barrel from the action ?🤔

Would it?
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I've seen a U-tube of a kid in America, just grip in a vice and smack it across the workshop with a lump hammer.  I think his name must have been Bubba, because he then proceeded to drill though the receiver side and bolt on angle iron, whack a scope on it and a bit of black paint and call it good.   Any-Hoo, there is probably loads of ways to remove flash hider.  I dare say a bit of heat will help, but don't go nuts with it.  The hardest and most time consuming for me has always been getting the taper pins out, but if you overcome that, the picture I will attach, hopefully depicts the next issue, it is that you only have 1mm (40thou) ring of barrel to push on.  Is why I suggest you get the best possible mechanical advantages you can, to cope with this problem of lack of surface area.  With the punch, use a metal that is a bit softer than ordinance steel, I suggest using brass, or just mild steel would be fine - be sure to file the sharp edge of punch shoulder to a radius, because this is the bit, that will be doing the deed, be sure and check the crown after, do remedial work if necessary.  I made a brass slug for the cordless drill with a nylon bore guide and a 45deg surface that I push against the crown with valve grinding paste.  A bit tricky in that you must not get the stuff actually down the barrel and wreck the muzzle, I think using custom made, split support block, will help a lot, the job, should be done in a hydraulic bench press, because you will have more control.  You don't have to remove the barrel, but since I had 3 to do, it made sense.  I suppose the big caveat on any advice/help I give is useless to people with no access to gear.  I can't really help that.  I can only show what I did that worked.    
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How are these flash hiders originally installed? When I worked in the chemical industry, our millrights would regularly repair pumps, turbines, etc. and would occasionally run into one that the rotor, bearing or coupling would not come off (tried heating, hydraulic press). I've seen them put the shaft on the lathe and machine the material off to the shaft diameter. I've also seen them carefully use an angle grinder to cut horizontal slots on the stubborn piece.
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  I don`t think the puller would  work because there would be nothing to sit against just the bore hole.

My guess would be pressed on and timed and then cross drilled and pinned. The barrel stops against a step/shoulder, so barrel crown would be all but ineffective. I noticed there was virtually no crown on my barrel. The mounting surface on mine had a slight taper to it, so it tightens up as it`s installed.
Based on what I`ve observed with mine, the flash hider is probably the main reason for the No5`s accuracy issues. The whole flash hider design is just wrong, it is in effect a rocket nozzle. The turbulence it causes would not be conducive for good bullet trajectory.
  Funny how they could design jet aircraft and atomic bombs back then but had no clue how to design an effective muzzle device for a rifle, or they just didn`t care. Firing it at night would illuminate your whole platoon...Shocked you may not be able to pinpoint the shooter, but you would definitely give up your position.

Since I have zero use for my flash hider, I may sell it complete with the tapper pins and .010 sight blade. What do you guys think it would be worth?
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