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    Posted: December 01 2025 at 9:02am
A question for the brain trust here. I am encountering a problem when restoring wood parts like a butt stock. I tried staining the wood to match the rest of the rifle but the stain doesn't seem to soak into the wood. It just sits on the surface and dries into an ugly mess. Is the wood too embedded with old oils and dirt for the stain to do it's work? I am not much of a woodworker having very limited experience doing that kind of work. Thanks to those who respond! Tim.
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First thought is to open the grain with lower grit sanding. Before I did this though I’d strip the stock completely with citrus strip. Either there’s a finish type blocking the soaking of the stain, or the grain is too tight. If we’re talking beach/birch the grain structure can be naturally tight. 
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Thanks, Irish Blonde! Good advice.     


'
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Try something like an alcohol scrub BEFORE any sanding. That will preserve any faint markings.
Is the stain water, or oil based?
That could make a big difference.
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I think it will be tough to get any stain to "take" unless some of that linseed can be drawn out.  Agree, water base stain for sure would not work. 

Google is your friend on these things, though someone here may have more direct experience.  
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It is indeed oil based stain. I'll try drawing out the old oils then try it again. Thank you gentlemen!
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The other option, is not to stain the wood. 
I get the idea that making it match is prettier than having a mismatch. But in service 
, I doubt they would bother with staining reused parts. Plus it won't make it shoot any better! 
Just a thought! Not a criticism!
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no , in service they would make sure the wood furniture was servicable and send you off with it never evenb thinking if it matched in any way , 
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OR DO THIS! LOL

I stripped a beech stock that had a poor surface finish of some type. Brought the wood to the white condition. Then I applied 100% tung oil with the last coat getting a UV and wind treatment on the back deck 70F. day. The tung oil turns a bit blonde as it cures, but shows all the beauty of the wood. One of the hardest finishes in terms of durability I've tried. If you like blondes. Of course I do, and I like to tung them. 

ETA: 100% tung oil. Not "tung oil finish". 
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Tung oil 100%, okay got it, thx!
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Linseed, Raw at first to nourish & boiled (Stand oil) later to seal & finish works well, but takes a lot of patience, but IMO Its well worth it.
Blond wood in front after allowing to polymerize & dark (Coachwood) at the rear. No stains used at all.
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Gorgeous pair of ladies!
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Drop dead gorgeous!
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Thank you. the blond was started almost 15years ago now.
The Aussie with coach-wood just a couple of years back.
Something I've done but never mentioned with really grubby old stocks is "Murphy's Oil Soap", used as directed.
Its a dedicated wood cleaner & so more kind to the wood than stronger things, maybe a couple of washes a week or two apart then start re-oiling with new, clean oil.
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I second that nomination of the Murphy's Oil Soap, works quite well.  I probably got that idea from you Shamu. 
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I'll give Murphy's Oil Soap a try if I can find some. I'd like to finish this project before Christmas, LOL. The rifle is a Faz No.4/MK2 FTR '52. The wood is that almost black walnut color. I had to replace the butt stock due to deep wounds and cracks. The rifling is awesome and the rest is in great condition, just the butt got whacked around pretty hard. I have 2 projects on the go and doing some reloading at the same time so I am busy busy!
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