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2A1 sporter action screw spacer and bedding |
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Hal9000
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Joined: November 14 2024 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Topic: 2A1 sporter action screw spacer and beddingPosted: November 14 2024 at 7:49pm |
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Hey all, nice to meet ya (first post, figured I should say hi!)
I have an easy starter question. Can anyone tell me the exact length of the steel action screw sleeve (connecting the bottom metal to the receiver) for a 1966 2A1? The reason I'm asking is that after a few years of distractions, I'm finally getting around to accurizing the rifle that my brother gave our 13 year old when he showed an interest in hunting. The rifle was sporterized about 25 years ago, which I realize some see as blasphemy and probably degraded the accuracy in the process.... That's not going to stop us from shooting and enjoying the thing though. Anyway, when my brother tossed the original furniture in the trash, he must have tossed the spacer with it and now I need to find or create a new one. So exact length would be helpful to know. I'm also having feeding issues, which I understand could be related to the bottom metal spacing, but I'm not discounting bent guides on the top of the mag yet either. Any guidance on feeding issues would be helpful. Thanks!
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Shamu
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Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510 |
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Posted: November 15 2024 at 12:23pm |
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No! Not to be mean or nasty but its not a fixed dimension I'm afraid. The idea is it's just shorter than the actual gap between the receiver & bottom metal setting up a limited & controlled crush force in the wood. All this on your own, unique set of parts. I guess you could hand assemble the receiver to the wood fairly forcefully & use a depth measurement from a caliper. Then do the reverse from the other end & work out the math that way? You need to have it slightly shorter than that mathematical answer. Magazines need to be hand-fitted to individual actions. That's probably the source of your feeding troubles. These a thread on here where we were able to help a new member with a similar problem. If I can find it, I'll post a link to it as it has lots of information & discussion which ended up fixing his problem so you can gain the benefit of that experience.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Hal9000
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Joined: November 14 2024 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Posted: November 15 2024 at 10:44pm |
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Thanks for the help. Definitely understand about the hand fitting but I would have expected it to go the other direction with the wood tweaked to fit the dimensions of the metal parts. Also I read somewhere that if the angular relationship between the bottom metal and the receiver changes that could create feeding issues which is why I was concerned about the length of the spacer tube.nif it's non critical that makes my life a lot easier....
And it's a synthetic stock by the way so compression is going to be different than the original wood unit. I already know that's going to throw a wrench in the works but my brother did this all in his early 20s and didn't put any effort into fitment (didn't know any better). So the way I see it just finishing the job he started a long time ago . I'll be interested in that magazine fitting thread. I've already done some good, but when loaded with 5 rds (I have the mag blocked to 5 for hunting reg compliance) it consistently pops the second round out of the mag at an extreme angle (first round of I load 4) that either jambs against the back of the barrel or stovepipes out of the ejection port. The short term fix for this season was to hunt with three in the mag but I know I can fix the issue. The round that's jumping is coming off the left side of the stack I believe and I'm suspicious that the mag jot dropped on it's top and bent or had something similar happen way back in the day...
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britrifles
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Joined: February 03 2018 Location: Georgia, USA Status: Offline Points: 8404 |
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Posted: November 16 2024 at 2:35am |
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You could try the stock sized front trigger guard screw collar that you can buy from Numrich and other online retailers. But, if the forend is synthetic, it’s probably not really necessary. Just tighten up the screw to 25-30 inlbs.
If you do try a collar, it would probably have to be fitted as Shamu described. They typically have to be filed down, a little at a time until the trigger guard compresses the forend slightly as it contacts the collar. For the mag, put two rounds in and slowly push the bolt forward watching the bullet, if it jumps out of the mag before the tip contacts the feed ramp you have to tweak the front left feed lip. |
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Shamu
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Logo Designer / Donating Member Joined: April 25 2007 Location: MD, USA. Status: Offline Points: 20510 |
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Posted: November 16 2024 at 3:37pm |
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^^^ this.
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Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Hal9000
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Posted: November 17 2024 at 4:51pm |
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Many thanks. Honestly I'll probably just make my own collar so I can get a better fit around the bolt but this all helps!
Might as well add my next burning question... The mid band (now at the forend of the Sporter stock has around a .015" gap to the barrel.I realize there's a whole art to tuning and bedding stocks and forend pressure is a thing that I won't have. So that raises the question of how to treat the mid band and the forend of the stock? I could shim it, remove it, add a pressure pad or bed the whole length of the barrel... Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated though! Thanks!
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