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I need some help with a Long Branch

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Honkytonk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 2:50pm
Thanks! Did not know that. Did all Longbranches have that style?
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Enfield trader View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enfield trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 2:50pm
Send me a PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 3:41pm
Originally posted by Enfield trader Enfield trader wrote:

No difference in the bolt - bolt heads are a little different due to the No4 MKI* bolt head it removed at the cut out of the rail. The bolt heads for that take down type is chamfered where the bolt head slides in the rail.

I don’t think this is correct. The threads on the bolt for the bolt head are different, and are recessed into the end of the bolt body for the No. 4.  The length of the long rib lug is different. The distance between the long lug and bolt handle is different.  I was not able to lock a No. 1 bolt body into my No. 4 just like the OP found. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enfield trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 4:59pm
My reply was no different between a MkI or MKi* No4 bolt 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 5:49pm
Sorry, I thought you were comparing the No. 1 and No. 4 bolts.  And you are correct, the bolt heads have the leading and trailing edges of the rail slot chamfered so that the bolt head can jump the slot in the rail without fouling. No other difference.  I’m not even sure the bolt heads are identified by a different mark.  When I fit a new bolt head to a Mk I*, I add the chamfer with a Dremel tool. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shamu Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 6:01pm
On this thought be careful when building up a bolt.
The SMLE threads are different from the No4 ones!
You can use a No1 cocking piece, firing pin lock screw & striker in a No4 bolt, BUT they must ALL be No1 parts because of the thread differences.
I don't think any other parts are interchangeable though.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Enfield trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 6:38pm
I haven’t seen different designations for the bolt heads 
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A square 10 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote A square 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 24 2025 at 7:58pm
"......ea enclosed by the stripper-clip guide.  ,,,,,," 

ahhhhhhhhhhhh tony alert , please use correct nomenclature - its a charger guide , the strippers are in the strip clubs dancing on poles , they have no place on a proper enfield 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 3:24am
Originally posted by NavyGeo NavyGeo wrote:

 Not knowing much of the history of my particular piece, I will look for either old-issue ammunition or I'll reload with black powder.

You can certainly do that, but be aware that much of the .303 Mk 7 service ammunition is corrosively primed. And as far as I know, there is no Rosetta Stone for determining which are non-corrosive and which are not, so best assume it is corrosive primed and clean accordingly.  

Black powder is also an option, but unless you just like all the smoke and mess, use nitrocellulose loads. The No. 1 and No. 4 rifles were never used with black powder, only the very first long Lee Metford. 

Your best bet for reloading is to get new PPU cases and load .311 - .312 diameter jacketed bullets. Medium burn rate rifle powders such as IMR 4064, 4895, Re 15, Varget, N140 and many others are suitable for the .303 British.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NavyGeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 7:30am
Originally posted by A square 10 A square 10 wrote:

"......ea enclosed by the stripper-clip guide.  ,,,,,," 

ahhhhhhhhhhhh tony alert , please use correct nomenclature - its a charger guide , the strippers are in the strip clubs dancing on poles , they have no place on a proper enfield 

Well, I can honestly say that I observed a wild Stripper with an Enfield in a show in Vancouver, B.C. many years ago as a young...stripper-oriented...sailor!

I'm sure it was a de-militarized one of course...but she knew the Order of Arms quite well!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NavyGeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 7:34am
Originally posted by britrifles britrifles wrote:

Originally posted by NavyGeo NavyGeo wrote:

 Not knowing much of the history of my particular piece, I will look for either old-issue ammunition or I'll reload with black powder.

You can certainly do that, but be aware that much of the .303 Mk 7 service ammunition is corrosively primed. And as far as I know, there is no Rosetta Stone for determining which are non-corrosive and which are not, so best assume it is corrosive primed and clean accordingly.  

Black powder is also an option, but unless you just like all the smoke and mess, use nitrocellulose loads. The No. 1 and No. 4 rifles were never used with black powder, only the very first long Lee Metford. 

Your best bet for reloading is to get new PPU cases and load .311 - .312 diameter jacketed bullets. Medium burn rate rifle powders such as IMR 4064, 4895, Re 15, Varget, N140 and many others are suitable for the .303 British.



Thanks very much for some pertinent ammunition information!  I was actually looking at some inexpensive Ishapore ammunition until you posted this.  I'd rather find spent casings, prime them with good primers, then load them with the IMR.  I used to have a Lyman and a Hornaday loading manual from the early '70s.  I'm sure they'll have some loads.
My goal is to stay well above "Squib" level and well below "Max-Pressure" level so as not to stress my Long Branch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Honkytonk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 12:12pm
Might wanna hold off on used really old loading data. Powders have made some "improvements" over the years and the same make/model powder now with old loading data weights might create excess breech pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by Honkytonk Honkytonk wrote:

Might wanna hold off on used really old loading data. Powders have made some "improvements" over the years and the same make/model powder now with old loading data weights might create excess breech pressure.

^^^^^  THIS

And, you can get current load data online.  The Hodgdon website lists load data all the powders they distribute, including IMR, Winchester, Accurate and Ramshot.  Most all powder manufacturers have a website with rifle load data. 

   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NavyGeo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February 25 2025 at 1:17pm
Thanks honkeytonk and britrifles.  I hadn't thought of the difference in modern smokeless vs. vintage smokeless.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rossfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2025 at 8:56am
Do not try to fire the rifle until the new bolt has been properly lapped in to the lugs in the receiver.

I built myself a somewhat crude but effective machine to accomplish that task, but it can be done by hand.  Put a fired case in the chamber and find a coil spring about the same diameter as the bolt or a little smaller.  I use a piece of plastic inserted into the bolt body threads a guide for the spring.  The purpose of the spring is to provide equal backward thrust on the bolt while by hand you work the lever up and down until the lapping compound you put on the recoil lugs shows that the contact on all four surfaces is even and as large as it can be.  My machine does the up and down part for me.

After the bolt is lapped in, HS gauges will be needed also.  Lap the bolt head face on a suitable flat with emery paper, then fit and test the squareness of the bolt face to the rear face of the no-go HS gauge with blue or a permanent marker etc.   You need full, even contact across the face of the bolt and the face of the HS gauge.  This will show whether the bolt head is square to the chamber.

The bolt head should not turn past the long recoil lug more than 12 degrees, but of course there is some leeway in that, depending on how effective you want your primary (as the bolt handle is lifted) extraction to be.

Make sure the chamber is free of oil before firing and inspect the bore very carefully also.  The original bolt may have been scavanged from the rifle due to the barrel being ringed, bulged, bent or cracked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote britrifles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April 09 2025 at 10:57am
Is anyone aware of any surviving production engineering drawings or assembly process/procedures of Lee Enfield rifles that might put some light on the subject of obtaining equal bolt lug contact and bolt head squareness?  Or any "instructions to armorers" on this?  I've always assumed this is a requirement, but never seen it addressed in any armorer's maintenance/repair instructions I've seen.   

We do know that bolt bodies are stamped with the serial number fitted to the rifle, so we assume that must mean they had to be "fitted" to that particular rifle action body.  

But, I doubt bolt heads were checked for squareness to the back of the barrel; and if they were, doesn't necessarily mean they are square to the bore as a headspace gage can tip inside the chamber until it seats flat on the back of the barrel.   


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