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No.4 Mk1* action bushing/loose forestock
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slowindown View Drop Down
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    Posted: January 20 2024 at 9:29am
I have just received a long branch no4 mk1* 1943 (New Zealand issue).  The rifle is in exceptional condition with very minimal use, based on my eyes.  But I noticed that the barrel was loose in the stock.  Searching around I saw that the bushing that the screw through the front of the trigger guard travels can be a little too long.  With the bushing in, I can move the receiver/action up&down ever so slightly but I can see the movement.  I can remove the bushing and tighten such that there is no noticeable movement in the action area. It takes 6.5 to 6.75 turns to tighten the action without the bushing.  It takes 6 turns to tighten the action with the bushing. 

I've read that removing a small amount of material on the bushing can alleviate this problem.  But I also seem to recall that I read that removing the stock and oiling good (boiled linseed oil??) can also alleviate the problem if the wood expands.  Before I do either of these things, I am seeking advice.  Remove the stock and oil it real good with BLO?  Sand a little off of the bushing? Or something else?

I would also note that even without the bushing, the barrel is not  really pushing down on the lower front of the front hand guard.  It is basically just resting on it.  With the rifle turned upside down fairly slight pressure will pull it away, although as distance increases more pressure is required. But with the bushing installed the barrel is loose at the end of the foregrip and can be moved freely - almost like it's free floated.
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britrifles View Drop Down
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You will probably have to file the front trigger guard screw collar down slightly, go easy, a bit at a time. 

Remove the collar, tighten the screw with the action in the forend to 25 - 35 inlbs and count the number of turns, mark the trigger guard and screw where the screw stops.  Remove the forend and count the number of turns and note position of screw when guard, collar and screw is fitted to the action body without the forend.  If the turns are less than without the collar, file a bit off one end of the collar until the screw bottoms on the collar at the same number of turns and marked position without the collar.  

If you want a bit more pressure, file just a bit more off the collar, but don’t to too far or you will compress the wood. 

You can try the BLO first, that may swell up the wood a bit. 
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Thanks.  I'll go with the blo first.  If that doesn't do it Ill follow you steps.
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You mean "If the turns are greater without the collar, file a bit off one end of the collar until the screw bottoms on the collar at the same number of turns and marked position without the collar." And not fewer, right?


It takes more turns without the bushing and it gets tight.  It takes fewer with it and it doesn't lock down the stock as tightly.
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The inside of the fore stock:
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Looks nice. To increase muzzle pressure, you can add metal shims to the back bearing surfaces of the action body on each side of the cutout for the sear. Try 0.010 inches thick, that may be sufficient.  You want about 5 lbs pressure at the muzzle from the forend bearing.
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Thanks.  Where is a good source for shim stock? 
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Its sacrilege I know, but I use strips cut from thoroughly washed soda cans Evil Smile.
Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force)
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Onlinemetals.com
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Originally posted by britrifles britrifles wrote:

Looks nice. To increase muzzle pressure, you can add metal shims to the back bearing surfaces of the action body on each side of the cutout for the sear. Try 0.010 inches thick, that may be sufficient.  You want about 5 lbs pressure at the muzzle from the forend bearing.


According to Major Reynolds, the lift required to raise the barrel from its seating is between 3 and 5 lbs. If the lift is below 3 lbs., the bearing at the reinforce is lowered slightly and the collar shortened.  If the lift is above 5 lbs., the bearing of the reciever  seating is lowered,  and the collar shortened the desired amount.
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Thank you gentlemen.  The stock is setting in the laundry room soaking up some BLO.  I'll refit the stock in the morning and then trim the bushing collar if still needed.  I'm scheduled to be extremely busy with work next week but hopefully will get to shoot it next weekend.  From the looks of the bore (2 groove), the action and the wood, I wouldn't be surprised if it had shot only a box or two of ammo.
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Originally posted by Goosic Goosic wrote:

Originally posted by britrifles britrifles wrote:

Looks nice. To increase muzzle pressure, you can add metal shims to the back bearing surfaces of the action body on each side of the cutout for the sear. Try 0.010 inches thick, that may be sufficient.  You want about 5 lbs pressure at the muzzle from the forend bearing.


According to Major Reynolds, the lift required to raise the barrel from its seating is between 3 and 5 lbs. If the lift is below 3 lbs., the bearing at the reinforce is lowered slightly and the collar shortened.  If the lift is above 5 lbs., the bearing of the reciever  seating is lowered,  and the collar shortened the desired amount.


Yes, that is the orthodox method used by experienced armorers who know how to fit the forend by scraping the wood and checking for even contact.  But, the shims work just as well for increasing muzzle bearing pressure. 
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Originally posted by slowindown slowindown wrote:

Thank you gentlemen.  The stock is setting in the laundry room soaking up some BLO.  I'll refit the stock in the morning and then trim the bushing collar if still needed.  I'm scheduled to be extremely busy with work next week but hopefully will get to shoot it next weekend.  From the looks of the bore (2 groove), the action and the wood, I wouldn't be surprised if it had shot only a box or two of ammo.

If you have access to a borescope, inspect the throat carefully, this will show signs of use.  If the throat has absolutely no carbon, it’s not been fired. If you see some dark carbon right in front of the case mouth position and the beginnings of fire cracking, it’s had several hundred rounds. I’ve watched several barrels now progress from new condition to shot out and can guesstimate how many rounds have been fired by the condition of the throat. 
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Unfortunately I don’t have access to a bore scope. However, I’m certain it’s been fired. It has an s&k no-drill scope mount attached. I have an LB marked milled mk1 sight and pins etc on order. I do not believe it has been shot much, however. It shows very minimal wear.  Maybe I can start another thread and get some pictures posted tomorrow. I have this from earlier - lighting is not very good. What kind of wood is that? 




 


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Originally posted by britrifles britrifles wrote:

Originally posted by Goosic Goosic wrote:

Originally posted by britrifles britrifles wrote:

Looks nice. To increase muzzle pressure, you can add metal shims to the back bearing surfaces of the action body on each side of the cutout for the sear. Try 0.010 inches thick, that may be sufficient.  You want about 5 lbs pressure at the muzzle from the forend bearing.


According to Major Reynolds, the lift required to raise the barrel from its seating is between 3 and 5 lbs. If the lift is below 3 lbs., the bearing at the reinforce is lowered slightly and the collar shortened.  If the lift is above 5 lbs., the bearing of the reciever  seating is lowered,  and the collar shortened the desired amount.


Yes, that is the orthodox method used by experienced armorers who know how to fit the forend by scraping the wood and checking for even contact.  But, the shims work just as well for increasing muzzle bearing pressure. 
Just giving the OP another option to choose from Geoff...
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Long Branch supposedly used walnut, beech, birch and maple. It’s a bit hard to tell in your photo.  Maple is almost featureless, quite clear and dense (heavy). My 69L furniture is maple, but I doubt it’s the original stock.  

Can you post a photo close up of the outside of the forend. 
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