Thanks, Scott

Make sure that the sight comes with two screws.  One goes in place of the of the ejector screw and the other is installed thru the left rear sight axis pin lug on the receiver. 

Just to add to this, the screw** that goes thru the rear sight mounting hole can be one of two options.

1) A short screw** that simply bolts thru.' one of the rear sight lugs and then into the PH5C

2) A long screw** that passes thru both of the rear sight lugs and then into the PH5C.

Now - the problems.

With the short screw holding on only one of the original rear sight lugs the action can spread / flex under recoil and your accuracy will be 'inconsistant' at best, so do not use this,

With the long screw, it is possible to overtighten the screw such that the action is 'crushed' and the bolt trapped, you can even crush the bolt so it is immovable. When using the long screw you must put a lock-nut (correct size and thread obviously) between the two original rear sight lugs. Attach the PH5C 'tightly' but not crushing the action, then tighten up the locking nut against the 'inside' of the lug on which the PH5C is attached.

Cycle the bolt to ensure there is absolutely no resistance.

If there is any resistance to the bolt, then back off the lock nut, back off the 'long screw' by 'a thread', retighten the lock nut and test again for any resistance on the bolt.

**  I use the term 'screw' to differentiate it from the rifle bolt. I wrote originally 'bolt' (as that is what it is) but I had too many 'bolts' and the clarity of which was which was not easy to follow.

Substitute BOLT for screw once you understand the principles.

How do I know this : I have tried the short 'screw' and suffered, and the 'long screw' and suffered until I found out how to do it properly.

This is the short screw installation. (I don't seem to have pictures of the long screw installation)

I can usually wring out about 1.5 MOA ten shot groups using the PH 5c with the short screw.  A bit better if shooting off the bench.  What groups do you get with the long screw? 

It depends on what the condition of the rifle is to start with - putting better sights (or optics) on a worn out rifle will improve nothing.

On my Savage I reckon to be able to get around 1MoA

This is at 75 metres (82 yards) 

2x "warming rounds" (on PoA) at 10:00 o'Clock and then 5 rounds.

Lying Prone, Elbow support only. Wind 10mph right to left.

Cut a drinking straw (or something similar) and wedge it between the two sight lugs. I'm pretty sure that it will fall out on firing as the action flexes.

A brief extract from Peter Laidler 'lectures' discussing the body flexing and its effects.

Imagine, that in effect you have now removed the rear sight - how much additional movement will there be ?

The original advert for the 4/47 sight (equivalent to the 5C) shows the long bolt in place.

Never heard of that but sounds a good, simple solution.Thanks.

Yes, I was studying these sights last night and had looked at both the short and long bolt set-up. I had already decided that I need the long bolt with jam-nut version if I were to get one of these. Looked to be the best way to go.

This set-up.

Thanks. I was actually thinking of doing that. Maybe some round stock as well.

Shouldn`t be too long. I ordered parts for my central Sight from the UK, and it arrived 10 days later.

Though this is Canada, not sure what your import rules are like for gun parts.e

Only seem to have issues ordering from the States.. lol

That looks to me to have the '6-hole' slide missing - it should be standing slightly proud of slot (at 3 O'clock on the bottom picture). maybe it is just the angles ?

a The outer part unscrews (you can see the join line in the centre of the 'barrel') which allows you to add prescrpition lens, OR, coloured filters.

They are a good eye piece.

PH made many different versions and that one is 'in the middle of the pack'.

If you want to improve it try and find a JH steward eyepiece that has infinite iris adjustment and coloured filter incorporated into the body as well.

This is a pricey piece, just got one from the UK, 69 pounds sterling plus shipping.

The iris one was 145 pounds, though both were NOS. The iris ones are slick but more than I wanted to pay.

Thanks! I think I will like it as well. I have never messed with an adjustable diopter eypiece before. I can't wait to play with it! Lol

I think the slide is there. Here is another pic from a different angle. It shows what I think is the adjusting slide. 

Interesting about the colored filters. I was reading about that and did not know if mine would have it. I like using amber shooting glasses. I wonder if there is an amber filter for these?

Looks like there is an amber filter. Now if I can find one.

Get some coloured 'plastic' sheet and make your own filters.

Alternatively look out for the PH filter holder (a small round brass box that screws undeneath the butt. These are designed to hold the filters and as often as not will have them included.

Also used to hold the front sight elements :

Thanks! That's what I wanted to hear.

I might have to do that with some colored acrylic. 

The German eyepiece needs (on my rifle) 27 1/2 MOA clicks above 100 yd zero to clear the bolt handle.

The PH5 needed 32, but it has the QR feature & its easy to reset back to zero.

That means a custom front sight blade, because the tallest Enfield one isn't enough.

The P-H 6-hole one is roughly 0.2" less in diameter from my measurements & clears with no problem.

I have recently bought a #1mk3 rifle that someone had fitted this ph5c sight to ........not very well . They had drilled an extra hole ( not square to the action ) and in such a way that the tighter one tightened the extra screw the more something was bending. Other screw went into the ejector screw hole, all a bit rough. Actually turned out to be a real bargain  as I wanted the sight for my #4mk1*  so that was good  , but the rifle also had a very good cond heavy barrel fitted ,with the "H"  stamped on it .  Im happy 😁

Hamish 

Shamu wrote: The German eyepiece needs (on my rifle) 27 1/2 MOA clicks above 100 yd zero to clear the bolt handle. The PH5 needed 32, but it has the QR feature & its easy to reset back to zero. That means a custom front sight blade, because the tallest Enfield one isn't enough. The P-H 6-hole one is roughly 0.2" less in diameter from my measurements & clears with no problem.

If you want to fit a similar sight onto the No1 Mk3 then you could use (amongst others) a PH5A

Looks like this :

I never would have thought that little 0.05 inch diameter backsight axis retaining pin holds the action together.   I suppose it might hold 100 lbs, maybe more if it’s a high strength steel. But the load can’t be that high, or it would bend the pin.

You peaked my curiosity.  I have shot the No. 4 (T) with and without the backsight, never noticed any difference.  

Do you happen to know what the thread is on the PH 5c rear attachment (BA)? I’d like to get a longer bolt (screw) to see if it makes any difference.  

Outstanding shooting with your Savage Armourer.  I rarely get this result (less than 1 MOA), probably never with 10 rounds, occasionally with 5.  I’d say on average, I hold to 1 MOA in prone, and the rifle probably shoots to within 1 MOA, thus 10 shot groups run about 2 MOA.  The best I did in a match with my No. 4 was 10 consecutive shots within the 3 inch X ring at 200 yards (US NRA Short Range Target). Some luck involved there…

Its a while ago but from memory the front (ejector bolt / screw) is 3BA and the rear is 5BA

In the USA BA bolts are readily available from 'model shops' (particularly for folks building up model steam engines etc)

That 5BA bolt, what is the OD of the threads? The little bit I could find says .1260in/3.2mm. Is this correct?

Reason I am asking is so I can find some appropriate round stock for a spacer.

Yep , I have one . 

 Basic BA screws are available here but I need some 8ba screws with large heads to hold the little adjustment plates on . Mine came with munted screws and I cant  the correct ones here or on ebay . The ones I have work but they dont look right 

Good morning. Could you tell me the approximate distance between the ears on a No4?

Thanks, Scott

I get the same, and to cross-check I measured the width of the Parker Hale Enforcer Scope mount which fits between the rear sight lugs of the No4 and got :

I updated my No4 pic reference library with this. 

I thought you had a Savage No4 that you want to fit the 5C to. 

It may be worth you measuring your own rifle to ensure it is 'the same' - it may have already 'spread' or be slightly different anyway.

I do and I will. 

It's off at the gunsmiths getting the barrel installed.

Good! Now you just have to wait for the U.S.P.S.!

Yup. That could take even longer than UK to the U.S. 

The adjustable diopter eyepiece is very cool. I like it a lot. :)

Happy for you - go enjoy it !

When you remove the original rear sight - try and do it inside a 'baggy' there is a small spring underneath the pivot that loves to go 'boing' and is the world champion playing at hide and seek 

Thanks! I will!

I have already removed everything from the receiver for a complete clean. It's off getting a new barrel installed. Can't wait to get it back and install this sight and all the other bits. :)

Thanks! I'm sure I will. Probably going to be next year. Can't wait!

Me as well!

Good score 🙂

That eyepiece also includes a colored filter holder!

You unscrew the rear section to access it.

Absolutely! I have fiddled with numerous times already. Lol! So neat just in itself. :)

Thanks!

Yes! I'm going to take it apart tonight to check it out. Is it serviceable? Can I take it completely apart, get all of it's bits out? Looks like one of the smaller diopters has a piece of lint or something on it. I would like to get that off.

Thanks, Scott

Yes, unscrew the two halves apart and you will see a very small screw. if you remove the screw the six hole disc will come out.

Be warned though, you will need a jewelers driver the correct size. If it wont budge with the jeweler screw driver, leave well enough alone. The screw is very fine and shouldered and will strip or brake and are made from unattainium.

 Just soak the eye piece in a mild solvent if the screw wont budge, then blow out the holes while rotating the disc.

If the screw does come off, clean as above and apply a tiny bit of grease on the threads before re assembly to help against it seizing.

Awesome! I will take it apart tonight to see what is going on in there. I will post pics of everything here so there will be a reference. 

Thanks!!

Will do. Thanks!

There are many hidden little springs & indent balls & so on down inside the deceptively simple looking mechanism.

Personally I would not totally strip it unless you are 100% familiar with all the idiosyncrasies of the P_H & AGP sights.

Maybe separate the top & bottom & unscrew the eyepiece from the wind arm but stop there. Back in the Day we washed the components in gasoline by immersing & swirling. Then remove blow & shake dry & leave overnight then lightly re oil with something line sewing machine oil.

The diopter I'd just blow out with compressed air, no pointy bits!

If things move fine, leave well enough alone. 

Forgot to take a before cleaning pic, but got one after being cleaned out.

Do the little colored discs just fit down in the bottom? I assume they do.

Yes the inserts drop in then screw back together.

Looks like new.

Thanks! 

Shamu wrote: Nicely done!

Thank you!

Honkytonk wrote: Very nice!

Thanks!

Thanks, Scott

I no longer have any as they are in-built into the eyepiece I use now - but - from memory I'd reckon about 1mm thick (maybe 1/16" max)

Thanks. I'll look for some material in that range. :)

The ones I have use a dedicated eye cup for the lenses, Alfred Parker or something. it screws on to the 6 hole base, Mine are glass, .05" thick and a little over a half inch dia.

However, with your set up you could easily make colored filters of an appropriate diameter and of a thin mat`l like that used for lighting gels. You know old school stage lighting. Once the eye cup is screwed in it would hold it in place.

Mc Tool wrote: A quick walk round the senior citizens carpark should turn up some red ,orange and clear plastic fragments that might be useful😆

Now thats funny, but probably a good source at that......

The little sets of colored filters for Mag Lites could be trimmed down too.

https://coastportland.com/products/LF100" rel="nofollow - https://coastportland.com/products/LF100

 or you could buy one of these if you want lots of small, trimmable with, cissors acetate gels.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/45189-REG/Rosco_950SBLUX0103_Roscolux_Swatchbook.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/45189-REG/Rosco_950SBLUX0103_Roscolux_Swatchbook.html

 

Yup, I was looking at gel camera filters. I think they will fit the bill perfectly. Thanks.

Nice! I wish I could find some real ones.

I could see the Yellow, Yellow-Green, or Green for hazy days. They block UV light which is a big part of the haze.

You don't have to mount them to check just hold them close to the eye as they are.