Teslong Bore Scope first look.
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Category: Enfields
Forum Name: Enfield Gunsmithing
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URL: http://www.enfield-rifles.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=14251
Printed Date: March 26 2026 at 3:39pm
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Topic: Teslong Bore Scope first look.
Posted By: Zed
Subject: Teslong Bore Scope first look.
Date Posted: November 17 2025 at 12:31pm
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I purchased a Teslong rifle bore scope kit from an online site. This kit is for use with a laptop or phone, so cost 42 Euro delivered. Which I thought was a good deal. After testing it at the weekend, I think it's an amazing deal! the image quality is excellent. The kit comes with a set of 5 (or 6) mirror adapters for different calibres, from .2" upwards . It's made me realise that my cleaning routine is not really up to scratch. GFinding plenty of carbon deposits in my 1929 BSA No1MkIII*. This rifle had a new old stock barrel fitted just after I purchased it, so I know it's all my own crap in that barrel. However the 2 groove barrel on the recently purchased No4Mk1 looks like it's been copper plated! it's going to need some real effort to get that clean. Here's a few images from the scope:  No1MkIII* a clean bit ! about 10cm after the chamber.  about 3/4 of the way down the barrel. Here's the No4Mk1 2 groove barrel. It's shocking! It's like that most of the way down the barrel.  That's going to take some cleaning. I was wondering if electrolysis may work on this? anyone tried it on copper fouling? Anyway, am very pleased with the image quality, even if it's given me plenty of extra work!  ------------- It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice! |
Replies:
Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: November 17 2025 at 3:25pm
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That looks pretty typical Shaun for barrels that get the “routine” cleaning most of us do with common powder solvents. How does the throat look on the Mk III barrel (just forward of the front of the chamber)? The light gray in the grooves you see is carbon that the solvent does not remove unless you do repeated cleanings over several days, even then, Hoppes 9 won’t get it all. C4 works well for that, except the hard (dark) carbon for the first inch or two forward of the chamber. The No. 4 barrel shows it needs a good de-copper (on lands) and carbon (in grooves) removal. Might be some pitting here. This probably needs some cleaning with JB. A pic of the throat after cleaning will give us an idea how many rounds down this barrel. I don’t have experience looking at throat erosion from cordite, but I can estimate the equivalent number of nitro powder loaded rounds. My current cleaning routine is Hoppes 9 mixed with Kroil (about 4:1 ratio), scrub (short stroke) with a wet patch on a PH style jag in the AM and again in PM for 2 days. Keep the bore wet with solvent, don’t dry out with dry patches. Barrels with more than 3,000-4,000 rounds might need 4 or more days of this to keep fouling at bay. I do this until the wet patch comes out mostly clean. I clean with JB rubbed into a patch wrapped around a PH jag about every 1000 rounds (probably should do this every 500 rounds). The chemical alternative to JB is Bore Tech Eliminator (for copper) and C4 (for carbon), but it’s not quite as effective. |
Posted By: Shamu
Date Posted: November 18 2025 at 8:29am
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Its a quantum leap in bore observation for sure! I love mine. The biggest problem I had with mine initially was constantly having to remember you're viewing at high magnification. I use M-Pro-7 (aka Hoppes elite) as a copper cleaner, in combination with a very stiff nylon bore brush. The M-Pro is ammonia free & can be safely left in the bore with no harm. My usual routine is wet patches with it, till the bore is saturated half a dozen passes with the brush & patch out. 3 more whetted patches & stand muzzle down overnight. Repeat as needed & finish with a mop & gun oil. Not sure whats available there but I found the "Patriot brand PSR30" were the bees knees with the carbon fibre Hoppes rods so no false copper reads. https://www.proshotproducts.com/Patriot-Series-HD-Nylon-Bore-Brush_c_193.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.proshotproducts.com/Patriot-Series-HD-Nylon-Bore-Brush_c_193.html ------------- Don't shoot till you see the whites of their thighs. (Unofficial motto of the Royal Air Force) |
Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: November 18 2025 at 4:38pm
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As an example, here are the patches from cleaning my M1 Krieger barrel that now has 3900 rounds thru it. This was after shooting just 35 rounds in the Talladega matches last week. 3” x 1.5” patch wrapped around a PH style jag. Two patches each day for three days after firing, one in the morning and one in the evening allowing to soak in between. The green is the copper being dissolved. It takes some time with Hoppes 9, so don’t dry the bore out right after using it or it won’t remove any copper. I probably could have done one more day of cleaning. I leave the bore wet with Hoppes and store muzzle down in the safe. Then the night before shooting, dampen a patch with Hoppes 9/Kroil mix and short stroke up/down bore followed by a dry patch. Ready to shoot.  A barrel with only 1000 rounds cleans up much easier, fouls much less. Patch appears clean by the evening of the second day of cleaning. |
Posted By: Sapper740
Date Posted: November 19 2025 at 3:13am
| My bore cleaning regimen goes like this: I use Hoppes No. 9 soaked patches alternated with dry patches until I see little to no powder fouling then I switch to Sweet's 7.62 which I leave in the bore for 15 minutes to let it do its magic before I run a dry patch through. Then I repeat the process one more time to ensure I've got most of both powder and copper fouling out of the bore before running a Rem oil soaked patch through to prevent rust from forming. Speaking of rust I keep my shop at a low relative humidity by employing two dehumidifier, one in the gun safe and one in the shop since the part of Texas I live in can be very humid at times. |
Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: November 19 2025 at 3:28am
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I've used that exact process for a number of years. Still have a few bottles of Sweets in the cabinet. It does work, getting thru the layers of carbon/copper/carbon. For some reason, I stopped using it. Might be that the Sweets attacked the wood finish on the fore-end when some seeped out of the gas vent on the side of the action body. Or, I didn't like the smell of the ammonia based Sweets. And, you shouldn't leave it in the bore very long. Bore Tech Eliminator is even better, water soluble, does not smell and can be left in the bore. |
Posted By: Strangely Brown
Date Posted: November 19 2025 at 8:48am
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Shaun, that bottom picture looks identical to one I took with my Teslong on my heavy barreled SMLE, at first sight I thought the barrel was made of bronze! I took Geoff's advice and bought some Bore Tech Eliminator which does work well although it's rather aggressive if you accidentally splash it on woodwork. ------------- Mick |
Posted By: A square 10
Date Posted: November 19 2025 at 1:15pm
| that borescope gives a really clear picture , might have to get one of those |
Posted By: Zed
Date Posted: November 19 2025 at 1:19pm
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Thanks Mick and Geoff for the advice. The scope really makes you realise that "ordinary cleaning routines aren't that efficient. Although the copper fouled No4 Mk1 rifle was my last aquisition, and i have yet to test fire it. Obviously it needs a good going over to get back to the steel! I'll report back when I've had a chance to get on it. ------------- It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice! |
Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: November 26 2025 at 1:50pm
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Somewhere we were discussing effectiveness of what I would call “routine” cleaning. For me, that’s using Hoppes 9 on a patch wrapped around a Parker Hale style jag. Twice a day for 3 days. This removes the powder fouling and some carbon and does what I would call “smooth” out the copper to a thin wash. Even though the dissolved copper shows up as green residue on the patch, there is still copper distributed mostly in the grooves. Then carbon under that. I borescoped my No. 4 T today after finishing the three days of cleaning and soaking in Hoppes 9. The barrel has 1090 rounds thru it now. There was more copper and carbon in there that I thought. So, brought out the Bore Tech Eliminator, and one treatment of pushing 4 wet patches thru followed by 8 or 10 brush strokes and 2 more wet patches the bore was remarkably clean. I doubt another week of cleaning with Hoppes 9 would get it that clean. Top Row, patches from cleaning with Hoppes 9. Bottom row, patches from cleaning with Bore Tech Eliminator after cleaning with Hoppes 9.  Borescope pic after cleaning with Hoppes 9. Lands are fairly clean, some copper and carbon in the grooves.  Borescope pic after cleaning with Bore Tech Eliminator. Entire bore is clean, but some hard carbon remains in the throat area. It took me about 10 minute to clean with Eliminator, but three days of soaking with two applications a day with Hoppes.  |
Posted By: britrifles
Date Posted: November 26 2025 at 2:10pm
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What I forgot to say is that I don’t believe this light copper/carbon “wash” in the grooves is detrimental to accuracy, but if your rifle is stored in relative humidity levels at and above 50-60%, pitting under this fouling is likely to occur. Even oiling the bore won’t help as the oil can’t get under the fouling which can trap the moisture. Not much we can do about the condition of the old barrels in our LE’s, except keeping it from getting worse, but if you install a new barrel, best take care of it.
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Posted By: Irish Blonde
Date Posted: November 26 2025 at 2:13pm
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The best borescope confirmed "down to bare metal" cleaning regime I found is Thorroclean two part system and Hoppe's Black copper remover. Thorroclean gets 100% of the carbon fouling removed, but still leaves some copper residue in the grooves. Plugging the bore with an earplug and filling the bore with Hoppe's Black for an overnight sit removes all copper. I stopped with the 100% copper removal as I don't see any detriment leaving the light amount of copper in the barrel. I clean with the thorroclean system and whatever copper is left is left. Thorroclean does the job in 10 minutes what used to take forever and a lot of failure with many products. It's all I use now.
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